Since my form1 got refurbished to form1+ ish one, (it is recognized as form1+ when connected to a computer) things got busy and I did not have time to test print it.
Today, after months of working on other projects I finally have a chance to print something with it.
It gets rather cold in Seoul and my studio doesn’t have the best heating(if not at all). Form 2 has heated resin tank to keep the resin viscosity consistent. In cold weather resin gets thicker and doesn’t level quick enough after peeling process.
I briefly cleaned up the machine and added an old RepRap heater I had lying around, inside the orange chamber. Now the resin in the tank is warm and less viscous which hopefully, should improve print quality.
I used W1209 temperature controller I got from China long time ago and it seems to work pretty well so far.
For the past couple of months I and my team has been working everyday all day on a new project, Air Reinforced Structure for Fablab x Global Maker Showcase in Shenzhen but due to MERS outbreak in Korea the official invitation has been revoked. Now I got a day job and the evening time is free, there is some time to post on my blog.
Earlier this year I installed an FPV device on a WLtoys A999 rc car, which is only $25. Playing with it was fun but I wanted to control it like a rover, non-LOS reconnaissance.
There are numerous ways to achieve non-LOS operation with 2.4G controlled cars but one (easiest) way of it is to simply increase radio power. Conventional Wifi booster works perfectly but it is expensive and bulky, being about $50 or more for 2W booster.
Instead, I bought a 2W circuit board (XQ-02A) for $12 which is basically the expensive booster stripped down(plus some extra circuit board).
It can takes 6V directly from controller’s 4 AA batteries. I connected the shield of RG316 cable to ground, and also made a quick dipole antenna with 22AWG wire.
Now A999’s control is pretty crisp, at least as long as I can see with my 5.8G 200mW FPV. Of course penetration for 5.8G is the worst of all FPV frequencies and I am thinking to get 1.3G FPV gears and some other stuffs with some dough I get from my day job..
Here’s the video of it sneaking around the science museum at night, turn down the volume
I’ve been attending at Fablab Asia Network 2nd Conference in Taipei from this Monday, and today I gave a workshop on how to draw with any machine that takes gcode.
I am posting (per request) the revised version of 2d gcode generator for people to create their own drawings with their 3d printers.
I built a 3d printed micro octocopter more than 2 years back, when there isn’t really any brushed FC for more than a quad configuration. These days toy grade, quality multicopters came readily available, I decided to build one with more than 4 props.
Recently bought a FC for Eachine X6, from banggood.com, with 3d printed polyamide frame(Taulman bridge) on my heavily modified Ultimaker(200W aluminum heated bed-capable of heating hotter than 150’C, fully enclosed passively heated chamber., dual fan, dual extruder, actively cooled stepper motors, larger power supply and etc). Polyamide is rather flexible thus it is unbreakable and will survive in numerous crashes.
I mixed using used and new motors and since they are brushed micro, used motors provide less power than the new ones causing drifting and yaw. New 7×20 motors and hubsan x4 props(proved most efficient) from banggood is on the way and I am hoping to get better lift and battery life.
Total weight with FPV gears but the battery weighs 53.9g.
I am on a new project to create customizable inflatable structure, and I need to turn any kind of 2d curves into gcode.
This is a simple Grasshopper definition to turn any 2d geometries to gcode. There’s an issue with interpolating curves with points when numbers of points are too small to interpolate (or just random error in Grasshopper. It happens when computing rather large data.)
For sophisticated controls or get rid of errors I may revise but for now this would suffice to operate with simple 2d geometry.
에어 스트럭쳐를 만드는 새 프로젝트를 진행하기 위해 3D프린터를 개조하고 2D 커브를 G-code로 만드는 과정이 필요하다.
G-code생성은 여러가지 CAM프로그램을 사용할 수 있지만 Grasshopper를 사용하면 앞으로 이미지 처리라던지 이런저런 인풋 디바이스를 연결할 수 있는 확장성이 좋기 때문에 만들어 놓는 것이 좋을 것 같았다.
점들을 이어주는 과정(interpolate)에 문제가 좀 있는데 그래스호퍼 자체의 문제인듯 싶다.
데이터가 많아지면 한꺼번에 연산하는 과정에서 에러가 나는 경우가 종종 있기 때문에.. 추가적인 기능을 넣고 에러를 제거하려면 손을 좀 더 봐야겠지만 일단 이정도만 돼도 2d 지오메트리를 처리하는데 문제가 없다.
그래스호퍼 데피니션은 아래에서 다운받을 수 있다.
download 2D G-Code Generator
Recently bought a small RC car from Banggood.com, and just added FPV gears then drove with my ground station.
Over the winter I got married and took a break for a couple of months, I got into FPV (First Person View) and toy grade RC stuffs. I also built a quadcopter with 3d printed nylon parts-nylon is such an awesome material to work with, it is almost impossible to break, thus perfect for impact resistant applications. Maybe I post it later.
Anyway, equipment on the video as follows;
Car : WLToys A999
Video TX : TS351 + Cloverleaf antenna
Video RX : Aomway 32ch 5.8G AV receiver with DVR
Camera : http://www.banggood.com/FPV-14-CMOS-HD-Color-Camera-Module-600TVL-120-Degree-Wide-Angle-p-944546.html
Recorded with Aomway 32ch 5.8G AV receiver with DVR
I am a beer lover. A few bottles of hoppy beer is all it takes to make my day. When I came to Korea in 2010, there weren’t really anything to call craft beer culture other than a couple small breweries but nowadays there are handful of craft beer makers around the nation, one of those being the most eminent and probably the oldest, Magpie Brewery.
Recently I’ve contacted by their design team to produce their tap handles-I think it’s their first time to make one- and here’s the process of making a prototype. It is still a work in progress and may change over time.
Always wanted to try acetone vapor smoothing, and it worked pretty damn nice!
Simple woodworking + 3D printing + laser engraving
내가 좋아하는 술 종류를 꼽으라면 맥주가 단연 1위인데, 2010년말에 한국에 돌아왔을 때 크래프트비어 문화라고 부를만한 것이 거의 없었지만 요즘에는 몇 군데에서 hop이 많이 들어간 꽤 괜찮은 맛의 맥주를 만들어 판매하고 있다. 그 중 가장 유명한 곳인 맥파이 브루잉의 탭핸들(맥주를 따르는 부분 윗쪽의 장식겸 손잡이)의 시제품을 만드는 작업을 같이 하게 되었다. 아무래도 여러가지 재료를 가지고 뛰어난 퀄리티로 한꺼번에 생산해 주는 곳이 없다보니 이런 문의가 종종 들어온다.
ABS에 아세톤으로 처리하여 사출제품같이 매끈한 표면을 얻었다.
지난 10월 25일, 제가 번역한 Maker 다큐멘터리 스크리닝 행사를 국내에서는 처음으로 열었습니다. 용산에 있는 저의 작업실 옥상에 음식과 의자, 스크린과 프로젝터를 세팅했는데 저도 사실 옥상에서 뭘 잘 안하는지라 보이는 아름다운 서울의 풍경과 야경에 새삼 놀랐습니다. 오신 분들도 하나같이 풍경에 감탄을… 와중에 1층 방앗간에서 열심히 깨를 볶아 고소한 포그머신의 효과도 있었고 또한 재작년부터 만들고싶었던 하이네켄 난로를 만들 수 있어서 좋았습니다!
주요 메이커분들과, 정부와 기업의 메이커와 관련있는 분들을 초대하여 진행했는데 예상보다 많은 분들이 와서 몇몇 분들은 서서 관람을 하셔야 했습니다. 초대받은 분들이 거의 다 오신 경우는 저도 처음 봤어요.
여튼 정책을 결정하고 대규모 예산을 움직일 수 있는 분들이 제대로 된 정보를 접해야 한다는 공감대가 형성되었고 오셨던 정부와 기업 관계자 분들은 실제로 생각이 바뀐 분들이 있다고 하니 내년 정책에 살짝 기대를 해 봅니다. 협찬해주신 오픈크리에이터즈, 과천과학관, 한빛미디어에 감사드립니다.
더 많은 사진은 여기(flickr)에서 볼 수 있습니다.
Last Saturday I hosted the first ever screening of Maker documentary in Korea(I provided Korean translation and subtitles). It was held on the rooftop, a floor high from where my studio is at. I had many ideas to utilize the totally empty, relatively large rooftop space but this is the first and successful event/activity. Setting sun was beautiful and weather was warm. Surprisingly 40 something people were invited and actually most of them had come visited for this private screening event, and I only prepared about 20+ chairs so some of them had to stand or else for the whole event. Smell and the smoke of roasting sesame coming from the shop on the ground floor made kinda surreal atmosphere while watching the movie..
I finally had a good reason to build a mini keg fireplace.
Some people who has the power to decide where and how much to spend government and corporate fund were there to see what the maker movement is about and to meet with the makers. I can’t really tell exactly what’s gonna happen next year as where government funding goes to, but as we talked I kinda have a good feeling that it could possibly be much better than this year, which there wasn’t much support from the government and most of the related budget went to unrelated people and fields.
More photos and videos here.
After spending a couple of months overseas, I needed to maintain the machines, I mean 3d printers, but I didn’t and it started spitting me with bad prints. One side comes out nice and clean but the other side has thin base and holes on the model due to unsuccessful support. FFF machines are rough and tough and easily hackable but SLA consists of optics and a galvanometer thus requires much more meticulous care.
두 달간 미국에 있으며 한국의 기계들을 정비하지 못해 Form1의 출력 퀄리티가 현저하게 낮아졌다. 한쪽은 베이스도 얇고 서포트도 제대로 생성되지 않아 모델에 구멍숑숑이다. FFF 프린터가 마구마구 사용하기에는 정말 적합한 것 같다. 아무래도 SLA는 광학부나 갈바노미터가 들어가 있다보니 조심조심 신경써서 관리 해 줘야 하는 부분이 있다.
I disassembled the top part of the chassis including the orange cover by unscrewing bolts, Stainless steel bolts came out effortlessly but black bolts seem to stuck to the inner structure. I assume the structure may have powder coated after assembled or it was assembled before the coat wasn’t fully cured. Anyhow I sharpened the allen key to make sure to have the most torque on the bolt head.
볼트를 풀어 오렌지 커버를 포함한 채시 윗부분을 제거했다. 스텐 접시머리볼트는 부드럽게 잘 나오는 데 반해 검은 볼트는 분리가 거의 불가능 했다. 아마 조립 후 분체도장이 이뤄졌거나 도장 후 내부가 완벽히 마르지 않은 상태에서 조립이 이루어 진 것이 아닌가 싶은데, 어쨋든 렌치 헤드가 갈리는 것을 방지하기 위해 일식집에서 몇 년 일하며 매일 칼을 갈던 솜씨로 육각렌치의 날을 세웠다.
Even though the allen key was sharp as a blade I failed to unscrew the black bolts on the left. I used kinda stubby needle nose pliers and I couldn’t get to the front left bolt. I could’ve stuck the pliers inside the structure but it was too risky since I didn’t have a good grip and if I drop the plier onto the mirror.. don’t even wanna think about it.
렌치 날이 과장 좀 보태서 거의 칼날이었는데도 좌측 볼트는 분리가 불가능했다. 제대로 된 렌치가 없어 그냥 니들노즈(롱노우즈)로 너트를 조정했는데 다른 부분은 다 괜찮았지만 왼쪽 앞부분은 도저히 닿을 수가 없었다. 손을 안쪽으로 넣어서 조일 수도 있었겠지만 그립이 제대로 나오지 않았고 또 만약 조이는 와중에 도구를 떨어뜨리기라도 한다면 아래에 있는 거울에 문제가 생길 수도 있기 때문에 그렇게 하진 않았다.
Here enters the makeshift wrench made from a free larger wrench for IKEA style furniture. It worked perfect without risking anything.
예전에 책상 조립하고 남은 렌치의 반대쪽을 이용해 작은 렌치를 만들었다. 안쪽으로 손이 들어가지 않고도 수월하게 조정이 가능했다.
Below is the test run after leveling attempt. I always thought the laser would be purple(405nm in wavelength) but it’s pretty blue.
아래는 레벨링 후 테스트 프린트. 레이저가 자외선이라(405나노미터) 보라색일 줄 알았는데 완전 파랑이네.