Since my form1 got refurbished to form1+ ish one, (it is recognized as form1+ when connected to a computer) things got busy and I did not have time to test print it.
Today, after months of working on other projects I finally have a chance to print something with it.
It gets rather cold in Seoul and my studio doesn’t have the best heating(if not at all). Form 2 has heated resin tank to keep the resin viscosity consistent. In cold weather resin gets thicker and doesn’t level quick enough after peeling process.
I briefly cleaned up the machine and added an old RepRap heater I had lying around, inside the orange chamber. Now the resin in the tank is warm and less viscous which hopefully, should improve print quality.
I used W1209 temperature controller I got from China long time ago and it seems to work pretty well so far.
New bowden tube has thinner wall and it couldn’t withstand the strength required. It started to bend where there is lots of compression occurs (inside the carriage, approx 60mm~70mm/2.5″~3″) and again, there was some increased friction where the tube is bent, so I decided to reinforce it with something of thin but stiff tube. I was originally planning on purchasing metal tube which will provide more than enough stiffness, but found a BIC pen lying around fitting almost perfectly, so I cut it and fit it.
With this I hope it can print high(er) speed printing such as over 150mm/s with decent quality.
새로 구입한 정수기 튜브가 내경이 넓고 외경이 얇다보니 빳빳함이 예전 튜브보다 덜 하여 프린트 헤드 캐리지 안에서 프린트 헤드에서 필라멘트를 압출하면서 생기는 반발력으로 인해 캐리지 윗쪽에서 단단히 튜브가 고정된 아래쪽(그러니가 캐리지 안쪽 60-70mm정도)에서 튜브가 휘는 현상이 발생하여 마찰력이 높아지는 상황이 되었다. 그래서 튜브의 휨을 방지하기 위해서 바깥쪽에 금속재질의 파이프를 덧대줄까 했는데 내가 가지고 있던 BIG볼펜(똥 엄청 나오는 미제)을 발견하고 사이즈가 딱 맞길래 잘라서 설치해 보았다.
일단 전체적인 마찰력은 훨씬 줄어든 것 같고, 앞으로 현재의 1.5배 이상의 속도로 꽤 괜찮은 퀄리티가 나오기를 기대해보는데..