Since my form1 got refurbished to form1+ ish one, (it is recognized as form1+ when connected to a computer) things got busy and I did not have time to test print it.
Today, after months of working on other projects I finally have a chance to print something with it.
It gets rather cold in Seoul and my studio doesn’t have the best heating(if not at all). Form 2 has heated resin tank to keep the resin viscosity consistent. In cold weather resin gets thicker and doesn’t level quick enough after peeling process.
I briefly cleaned up the machine and added an old RepRap heater I had lying around, inside the orange chamber. Now the resin in the tank is warm and less viscous which hopefully, should improve print quality.
I used W1209 temperature controller I got from China long time ago and it seems to work pretty well so far.
1. 파워 버튼을 가끔 발이나 로봇청소기나 뭔가가 치는 바람에 프린트 중간에 꺼지는 경우가 가끔 있음.
2. 조명이 없어 사진을 찍을 때 어려움.
3. USB 파워만 연결 해도 system fan이 낮은 rpm으로 돌아가는 현상.
하단 오른쪽의 흰 스위치는 조명 온오프 용으로 산건데, 파워스위치(옆에 구멍이 그 자리)가 불량이라 일단 조명과 파워를 한꺼번에 연결했다. 파워스위치가 불량인 줄을 모르고 한시간동안 머리 싸매고 뭐가 문제인지 고민했음. Fan 돌아가는 문제는 포럼에도 있는데, 차후 Ultipanel 장착을 하기 위해서 만들어 놓은 점퍼 때문이라고 하는군. 단지 점퍼만 제거하니 fan 문제는 해결 되었다. 전선을 아답터 연결부에서 따 와서 7812를 사용, 스위치 안의 LED로 바로 연결, 시스템을 켜지 않아도 스위치 불은 들어온다. LED소모전류량이 1A가 넘는 것 같은데, 잘 버틸 지 모르겠네. 문제가 생기면 그 때 다시 포스팅.
Last night I had a hard time getting sleep so with my sleepy eyes I started some mods until I was finally bummed by finding out one of the switches was defective. I spent a good hour to figure out what I was doing wrong with frustration. Anyways, here’s a list of what I’ve wanted to do and done.
1. Power rocker switch has been hit(by feet or Roomba and so) for some times causing the printer to shut off during printing.
2. Printing chamber is too dark to take pix. Had to raise ISO for >6400.
3. System blower runs at slow speed when USB only is connected. Then it runs at full speed when power on.
So,, I wanted to install 2 switches for power and light, and as in the picture everything is connected to one button. Yes, the hole was for the (defective) power switch. I drew power from adapter connector socket (19V/always on) to 7812 then ran it thru LED within the switch, so it is always glowing even when the whole system is down.
For the system fan, all I needed to do was just removing a jumper right next to it. The jumper is for future upgrade.